Let me tell you a story that might sound all too familiar. A few months ago, a patient—let us call her Sarah—came into my clinic with a determined look on her face. “Doctor,” she said, “I’ve tried everything—scrubs, serums, masks. But my pores still look like craters!” As she leaned in closer, I could see what she meant. Her cheeks and nose were dotted with visibly enlarged pores, and she looked frustrated.
As a Doctor Skin Specialist, I hear this story often. Enlarged pores may seem like a small concern in the grand scheme of things, but they can have a surprising impact on how we feel about our skin. While we cannot erase them completely (pores are a fundamental part of our skin’s anatomy, after all), there are ways to minimise their appearance. So, let’s dive into why enlarged pores happen and what we can do to prevent and treat them.
When patients like Sarah ask why their pores look more prominent, I explain that a few common culprits could be at play:
Sebum is the oil produced by our skin to keep it moisturised and protected. Imagine sebum as your skin’s personal moisturiser but in excess, our skin becomes oily. When too much oil mixes with dead skin cells and environmental debris, it clogs the pores, causing them to expand. This is particularly common in individuals with oily skin, where sebaceous glands are in overdrive.
When I told Sarah that aging could be a factor, she looked at me skeptically. “I’m still in my 30s!” she exclaimed. But the truth is, our skin begins to change long before we see visible signs. As we age, our skin produces less collagen and elastin—the proteins that keep it firm and smooth. This natural decline causes the skin to lose its tautness, and pores start to look larger as they become less supported.
Sarah nodded knowingly when I mentioned sun damage. Years of beach vacations without proper sunscreen can take a toll. Ultraviolet (UV) rays break down collagen and elastin, weakening the skin’s support structure and making pores look more prominent. Sun exposure also thickens the outer layer of the skin, leading to a buildup of dead cells around the edges of pores.
I gently reminded Sarah that sometimes, genetics are to blame. If her parents had large pores, there is a good chance she inherited them too. “So, you’re saying I can blame my mom?” she asked with a smile. “Pretty much,” I replied.
Hormones, particularly during puberty, pregnancy, or menopause, can stimulate increased sebum production, leading to clogged and enlarged pores. I explained to Sarah that hormonal fluctuations are like a rollercoaster for your skin—sometimes smooth, but often with unexpected dips and turns.
When I asked about her skincare routine, Sarah confessed to trying nearly every product under the sun. Unfortunately, using harsh scrubs or heavy, oil-based products can irritate the skin and make pores look worse. Over-exfoliation can strip the skin of its natural oils, leading to more oil production in response. The result? Even more visible pores.
With an understanding of the causes, I shared a few strategies with Sarah to help prevent her pores from looking larger than life:
I recommended a gentle, non-comedogenic cleanser to remove dirt, oil, and makeup without stripping the skin. “Non-comedogenic” is just a fancy way of saying that it will not clog your pores. Cleansing twice a day helps keep pores clear, but it’s important to avoid over-cleansing, which can irritate the skin and make matters worse.
While Sarah had tried every scrub on the shelf, I recommended that she consider chemical exfoliants like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). These ingredients help remove dead skin cells that clog pores, but they are gentler on the skin than physical scrubs. I suggested she start slow—once or twice a week—to see how her skin responds.
Sunscreen is non-negotiable. I reminded Sarah to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 every day, even on cloudy days. Sunscreen helps prevent UV damage that can make pores look larger. “Think of sunscreen as your skin’s armor,” I said “Without it, you’re defenseless.”
We also discussed the importance of hydration. Drinking plenty of water and using a lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturiser can keep the skin balanced. Dehydrated skin often overproduces oil, leading to—you guessed it—larger-looking pores.
Heavy, pore-clogging makeup can worsen the problem. I recommended that Sarah choose lightweight, oil-free products. Mineral make up is ideal to prevent congestion of the pores. Always remove makeup before bed. “Sleeping in makeup is like inviting congestion into your pores,” I explained.
After discussing preventive measures, I outlined a few treatment options for Sarah, emphasising that these are best tailored to an individual’s skin type and concerns:
Retinoids are derived from vitamin A and can increase cell turnover, prevent clogged pores, and stimulate collagen production. They’re often considered the gold standard in treating enlarged pores.
Niacinamide is known for its ability to reduce sebum production and improve skin tone. I recommended that Sarah look for a serum or moisturiser with this ingredient.
These chemical exfoliants work by exfoliating the surface of the skin and clearing out pores. Salicylic acid, a BHA, is particularly effective for oily and acne-prone skin.
For those who find over-the-counter products insufficient, professional treatments like micro-needling can help improve skin texture and stimulate collagen production. I explained that these treatments offer more intensive results but require consultation with a Skincare Specialist.
By the end of our conversation, Sarah seemed more hopeful. She realised that while pores are here to stay, they don’t have to dominate her reflection. Enlarged pores are a normal part of skin, influenced by many factors beyond our control. Instead of chasing a “poreless” ideal, the goal should be healthy skin that feels good.
Sarah left my office armed with a new skincare routine and a better understanding of what was happening beneath her skin. She knew it wouldn’t change overnight, but with consistency and a few adjustments, she was on her way to feeling more comfortable in her own skin.
So, if you’re like Sarah and find yourself frustrated with enlarged pores, remember: knowledge is your best tool. With the right care, you can achieve healthier, more radiant skin—one pore at a time.
Our aesthetic clinic in London is led by Dr Stephanie Damalis, an aesthetic doctor with 12 years of experience. She offers leading cosmetic treatments including anti-wrinkle treatments, skin procedures and dermal fillers.
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